New Orleans Food Guide

New Orleans 6

Where to Eat

Cafe Amelie: A courtyard table at Cafe Amelie is just about the best seat in town. Order a leafy green salad and tall iced tea if you’re ready for a break from heavier southern fare. 912 Royal Street. (504) 779-5188

Upperline: The impeccable service, homey atmosphere and personal greeting by owner, JoAnn Clevenger, contribute to his position. But, at the end of the day, it’s all about the food and there’s none better. 1413 Upperline Street. (504) 891-9822

New Orleans 7

Central Grocery: It’s difficult to argue with foodies who insist Central Grocery is still the best muffaletta in town. Join the lineup at this humble Sicilian grocer, order the famous stacked sandwich to go and share it with a friend once you find a vacant bench by the nearby Mississippi River. 923 Decatur Street. (504) 523-1620

GW Fins: Exceptional service (a uniformed waiter discreetly swaps a white napkin for black to avoid lint transfer to dark pants) and divine seafood make GW Fins a winner. The feast begins with buttery biscuits, so sweet it feels like having dessert first. Try the scalibut, a scallop topped halibut dish. 808 Bienville Street. (504) 581-FINS PS. Thanks to our waiter, Karl, for recommending Two Sisters, an authentic soul food restaurant in Treme . 613 Royal Street. (504) 522-7261

Atchafalaya: If you’ve never heard of boudin stuffed quail, order it anyway. No visit to Atchafalaya is complete without this local dish. Husband and wife team Rachel Jaffe and Tony Tocco opened three years ago and there’s been a lineup ever since. 901 Louisiana Avenue. (504) 891-9626

Louisiana Bistro: The mood is merry and maybe that’s because diners trust Chef Mars to dazzle the palate with his oft-changing menu. Order whatever the waiter recommends and enjoy a first-rate meal. 337 Rue Dauphine. (504) 525-3335

New Orleans 30

Where to Drink

El Gato Negro: In a town famous for its syrupy mixed drinks, the handmade, fresh fruit margaritas at El Gato Negro really stand out. Consider a contemporary combination of pineapple and cilantro or opt for muddled fruit like blackberry, blueberry or strawberry, which renders the thick straw useless. There’s a foodie in the kitchen, so stay for dinner. 81 French Market Place. (504) 525-9752

Cochon: Those desiring a truly southern experience will surrender to the promise of moonshine served nightly at Cochon. Well-loved for their pork specialties, Cochon serves an authentic spread of Cajun and German dishes. Try the pork cheeks if you can get past the name, the meat is fall-off-the-bone tender. As for the moonshine…let’s just say it’s an acquired taste. 930 Tchoupitoulas Street. (504) 588-2123

New Orleans 13

What to Experience

New Orleans Cooking Experience: We loved this hands on experience. Most teachers are local chefs like Frank Brigtsen of Brigtsen’s Restaurant. Jackie ‘Boo’ Macomber peppers her classes with colourful commentary and Chiqui Collier can only be described as a ‘hoot’. 2275 Bayou Road. (504) 945-9104

Meltdown: On hot days the gourmet popsicles at Meltdown go down pretty easy. Show up early if you want the popular chocolate sea salt with pistachios. Or try the more adventurous cucumber, kefir and lime. 508 Dumaine Street. (504) 301-0905

Beer Pressure

prague-beer-1

At one popular joint known humbly as The Pub I encountered my first experience with “Beer Pressure”. The Pub has a large screen TV that tracks consumption at each table, against other pubs throughout the country. The bartender and other diners (let’s be honest, they were drinkers not diners) encouraged me (by way of derisive shouts and stares) to drink more beer and not allow our pub to look weak. I caved.

“To suggest Czechs are obsessed with beer (pivo) is akin to saying a human being is obsessed with breathing—it’s an instinct.”

Prague 12

Popular Pubs

U Zeleného Stromu (Bel.msk. n.mesti 6)
If it’s a warm day, head to the outdoor garden patio.

U Medvídku (Na Perstýne 7)
There’s a brewery and a small gift shop with kitschy beer merchandise like pilsner lotion. It also has an outdoor patio where you can enjoy a plate of sausages, mustard and sauerkraut for about $7, including beer.

U Vejvodu (Jilsk. 4)
A popular Old Town destination.